Journal of a PCV Parent Mali Part 1

Village escorts
Sliding rock
Dogon Ladders
Returning from the market!
Going down the escarpment
Dancing on the desert to Jimmy!

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Journal cont: On to the Dogon country of Mali, Part 1

I could write a book on this. There is so much to tell and, in fact, are books written on this, but let me try to give you a birds eye view of what we experienced and learned starting with some background from wikipedia: “The Dogon are an ethnic group located mainly in the districts of Bandiagara and Douentza in Mali, West Africa. This area is composed of three distinct topographical regions: the plain, the cliffs, and the plateau. Within these regions the Dogon population of about 300,000 is most heavily concentrated along a 200-kilometer (125 mile) stretch of escarpment called the Cliffs of Bandiagara. These sandstone cliffs run from southwest to northeast, roughly parallel to the Niger River, and attain heights up to 600 meters (2000 feet). The cliffs provide a spectacular physical setting for Dogon villages built on the sides of the escarpment. There are approximately 700 Dogon villages, most with fewer than 500 inhabitants.” To experience this we traveled for two days (as described somewhat in the last posting) met up with three other PCVs and connected with our Dogon guide Hassimi. Hassimi was a delightful and very intelligent Dogon descendant who had learned English from tourists and spoke very well, giving Zach a much-needed vacation from translation. Hassimi taught us a great deal and yet not enough. I am hungry to learn more. My nephew Adam did a report complete with a Dogon mask when he was in middle school. I can’t wait to show him our pictures and compare notes. Our first day in the cliffs was a busy one. We started on top of the escarpment and visited a delightful village, full of curious children and very busy women. The men were herders. This village gave us insight into village life with adobe houses whose roofs were wonderful solar dyers for gains and produce. We spent time with some children in this village scurrying up and down the roof s and cliffs. This village even had a sliding rock. After leaving this village Hassimi turned us over to his partner Momadou, and we hiked down the escarpment. As we struggled with our downward journey, we were treated to breathtakingly beautiful panoramic scenery and another example of life for women in West Africa. It was market day and women were returning from market with loaded down baskets on heads and babies on their backs. It was in this way they were climbing UP the cliffs. No fitness centers for these women! Zen moment of that day: picture a 4X6 foot bamboo table covered with a beautifully indigo dyed hand woven Dogon cloth, bottles of cold Flag (West African beer, pretty good) and Fanta (The most refreshing drink when had after a long hot West African day), Jimmy Buffett music on the I pod and quiet conversation with 4 delightful PCVs (more on them later) about life and fun times. All four of our fellow travelers were in their 20’s and listening to them talk made me realize how much living they have done already in their young lives. I have no doubt that they will experience much, much more in their lives than the average American. Slept in our screen tent under the brilliant African stars!