Wednesday, July 30, 2008

I have a home!

So before I left my site for site visit I found this sweet place to live; it had two trees perfect of a hammock, a closed in courtyard perfect for a garden, a bathroom that was actually attached to the house, screens on the windows, and I was going to split the rent (it would have been $40 a month) with the guy who was currently living in half of the house but was never really there because he sells fish in Nouakchott. We had it all worked out, but then the landlord came over and tried to kick the guy (Sydu) out because he thought that I would pay more if I was living there by myself. After we talked him out of that, he said I would have to pay double because I was "rich." So I didn't end up living there.

BUT, I got a call from Sydu yesterday and he has apparently found a better place for the same price. If you look at Bababe on google earth or maps it is on the NE side (the side with planned streets). So I will basically have my own place which will allow me to spend as much or as little time with the families of my choosing as I want. Pretty excited about that. Also it apparently has a real shower, which is so far above my expectations I don't quite know how to feel about it.

What's next?

So I head back to my training site tomorrow. I am very excited to continue to learn Pulaar now that I can connect its usefulness to my work and life. However, while I really like my host family and training site, now that I know my real site, I sort of feel like I am going back not to live there for the next month but just to learn Pulaar. I suppose that could be a good thing and it will also change as I reengage in my families life. I will be back at center (aka internet access) on the 6th.
Then again on the 25th for a few days for swearing in and then I will finally officially be a volunteer and leave for my site on the 30th. I have to say, the end of training is coming up very fast and more than a little scary... Mostly because there is not a whole lot of time left in language classes, although I will be getting a tutor once I get to my site.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Gimme Gimme Gimme I Need I Need I Need....

Hey all,

So some people have been asking what would be good things to send, here are some examples of stuff that I could never get enough of:

twist ties
granola bars
news papers / magazines / clippings
pictures from home (emailed or printed)
random stories
letters
love
spices for cooking
tea! (I'm definitely getting a lot of it, but not in variety and the amount of sugar they put in it makes mountain dew seem weak. So different varieties other than plain green and plain black would be good.)

"expensive" items that would make great presents for people here:
maps of the world
maps of mauritania
wind up flashlights

Also the address I originally sent out will always work but I will have a better one when I get to my site, which I will forward then.

Two days in the life

So I thought I ought to give you all a picture of what my daily life is actually like here. I will do one day in my training site and one day at the center.

Training site:
- 6:30 wake up with out an "alarm" because the animals and prayer calls are loud enough
- go back to sleep for an hour even though my family gets up
- 7:30 get dressed and be fed tea and bread by my family
- 8:30 language classes start
- 10:30-11:00 break from class, grab some food, maybe nap/check the garden
- 1:00 language classes break for lunch
- nap, read, play guitar, study
- 2:30/3:00 lunch with my family followed by tea
- 4:00-6:00 language classes
- 6:00-8:00 work in the garden
- 8:00-? do what ever I can in the very last bit of day light
- 8:00-10:30 talk with my family a little but mostly listen to them jabber in a language that I don't understand while I look at the stars
- 10:30 dinner
- 11:00 refuse tea and go to bed
repeat

Days at center:
- same wake up time
- 8:00-10:00 first session
- 10:00-10:30 break/snacks
- 10:30-12 second session
- 12:00-3:00 break for lunch/socializing time/time to go to the market
- 1:30 lunch
- 3:00-4:30 third session
- 4:30-5:00 break (thats what time it is right now)
- 5:00-6:30 fourth and final session
- social time
- 9:00 dinner
- prime internet time
- 12:00 prime euchre time followed by sleeping out under the stars

So now you can know what I am doing at various times throughout the day.

My new home

Hello World,

I will add pictures in another post but here are some notes about my home for the next two years:

The town has about 10,000 people in it, which is significantly bigger than what I had expected to say the least. It is right on the main road which makes it easy to get to. The Senegal River is a few km away and a little difficult to get to. I will have running water, cell service, and electricity at night. Which is pretty cushy. I almost feel like I am not "roughing it enough" but I know that that line of thought is garbage and will enjoy the amenities that I do have. Also, if anything they will make it easier for me to actually do my job. Speaking of which, there are a couple of schools and a number of cooperatives that I will be able to work with so there is no question of not having anything to do. There is also a rocky hill, which I like to call "the mountain", overlooking the city which will make for a sweet spot to chill when the sun is not beating down. I don't have a house yet but I am looking at getting my own place or splitting a house with some one else and then I will pay a family to cook for me. Lets see what else... My counterpart seems pretty excited and in general people were very happy to have me there.

Which gets to a point that I have to address about my work that became more apparent to me while I was visiting my site: I am not here to change anyones life. Mauritania, while it may import 70 percent of its food and seem like a totally distant land, is in no real danger of falling off of the face of the earth and that goes for the people in it. Basically I am here to work on environmental education and to what I can when they have requests of me, I am not here to really change the way they live. This is for two reasons. One, the notion of backwards developing countries is just as wrong as the notion of native americans as savages. Two, their way of life is infinitely much better suited to the land and available resources than mine. That's not to say that there aren't things that could be done in a better way, that is true for every culture of the world, just that I won't be doing any "saving" while I am here. I fully knew that before coming here but that point was really driven home when I saw the conditions of my site. However, there will not be a shortage of work for me to do either, it just first and foremost has to be in respect of Mauritanian culture.

Religion Part 2

Wow, ok there was a lot there. I love the discussion we have going. First (mom and cara) Ellen is my trainer who told me to write that. I actually had forgotten that it was at the bottom of the post, but I love that it incited so much curiosity ;)

I need to start this post as I should have started the other one: I am a foreigner here and struggling to understand a new culture. As such I am likely to say things that may be flat out wrong or insulting to Mauritanians. This is not intended and is solely the result of my incomplete understanding of a culture that is different from mine. With that said:

I love that the discussion on religion has incited its own exchange. I am not going to respond to absolutely everything but I think that everyone had truth in their comments. Basically, if I was one-hundred percent open with my views on religion, there is a good chance I that I would estrange myself so much that work would become impossible. There was a volunteer with similar view points as mine who shared them with people that he knew well and they never talked to him again. BUT, that is not of course true for everyone. I realized that in my first post I may have made Mauritanians sound fanatical and I did not mean to. Religion is taken very seriously here but there are people who don't give it much priority in their lives, they would just never publicly admit it. Perhaps one best way to emphasize this is to point out again that I am a guest in the ISLAMIC Republic of Mauritania. The notions of separation of church and state don't apply here as they do in the U.S.

I am excited that I have not been able to explain this perfectly because that is proof that religion here is one thing that is distinctly different from American culture. I look forward to continuing this discussion.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

100% Religion

So, I'm 20+ posts and a month in now and I have not mentioned religion yet. Given how much it is a part of life here, its sort of a miracle that it hasn't shown up in any of my posts. So here's an intro to a topic I am sure I will continue to explore in future posts:

For starters, Mauritania is officially the Islamic Republic of Mauritania (RIM). The country is virtually 100% Muslim. The only people who would not identify themselves as Muslim are foreigners. Also, being Muslim here is not like being "Christian" in the U.S. I know many people back home who identify as Christian, but in reality their identification is about as far as their commitment goes. Maybe they go to church, maybe they practice their own brand, or maybe they just identify with the religion because it makes life easier. Those sorts of commitments don't exist in Mauritanian/Muslim life. Maybe it does, but people would not share it with anyone if that were the case. Being Mauritanian means being Muslim, rather Islam comes before the country but you get the idea. Also, demonstrations of faith for Christians is usually a once a week thing. It happens 5 times a day during prayers here. In short, religion is a way of life here for everyone.

As such, the concept of religious diversity does not really exist. There is a recognition that Christians are also "people of the book" but beyond that religious diversity is unknown. This makes for interesting situations for people who identify as atheists, buddhist, pagan, and many other beliefs. The general rule of thumb is to identify as Christian when asked about your religion no matter what you believe. Also, they generally believe that all Christians are Catholic here. Sharing that you are an atheist has been known to end close relationships with Mauritanians permanently. This has been interesting for me as I have thus far chosen to lie and say that I am "Catholic." I have done this for two very practical reasons, one I don't have the language skills in French or Pulaar to explain my beliefs and even if I did, I am fairly certain they would strain relations with my Mauritanian friends and family. It makes my life easier but it is also a bit of a challenge because I have to lie every time I am asked about it. I feel that after a while this will be a bit of a drag. Also, I have not had any conversion attempts yet, but I am sure that I will. The up shot of these is that they mean that the person(s) care about you because they are trying to get you to convert so you don't go to hell, but they can still be trying.

In short, being Muslim is VERY much a part of daily life here for EVERYONE and that puts one in an interesting position; interesting as a witness to a totally different way of approaching religion and also because it can put me in tough situations.

I am sure I will have much more to say about this in later posts, but it is so much a part of life I wanted to introduce it now.

On a totally different note, SITE ANNOUNCEMENT IS TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OH YEAH! very excited about that.

Ellen Rocks!

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Other RIM PCV blogs

Find them here: http://www.peacecorpsjournals.com/mr.html

Some notes from my journal, part 1.

17 June:
- My arrival in Atlanta brings the relief of finally being on my way and just a little nervousness about really being on the way now. I can't fathom what it will be like and I don't know what I ever will be able to until I am there...
20 June:
- aaaand we're in the air! Its strange, all of the sense of mystery about the Peace Corps seems to have disappeared... The captain is announcing now and it makes me wonder how your perception of the size of the world would change if you crewed international flights...
21 June:
- We are here ... and most everyone has a shit eating grin plastered to their faces the whole time... It is, surprise, surprise, balls hot here... I feel that I am fully excited about the whole thing for the first time.
28 June:
- Second day of my homestay and its pretty surreal. I had not expected to be in a place so stereotypical of the western notion of Africa but here I am... Yesterday I had my first moment of "oh shit, what am I doing here???" I expect there will be a few more of those, it would not be difficult if there were not... Reality check: I am in Africa, living in a grass hut village, with the chief of the village and a 6 year old kid who takes care of me, I am speaking two languages, neither of which is english, we have a cow that guards the house, and my name is Aamadou...
30 June:
- Today was the first day I woke up refreshed and ready to roll. It felt great. I am also excited about getting some physical exercise in the garden later today. I guess today is a day of firsts because it was also the first day in which I felt like I was actually communicating. Also the first day I missed American food. I could really go for a salami sandwich right now.
2 July:
- I feel like I haven't been able to express my personality with my family, but I have a routine and I enjoy the greetings... I am also excited about the things I get excited about. Much of the easy entertainment I used to be excited about is being replaced by more dynamic and rich activities. It is definitely true that we over estimate the value of our technological progress. I don't understand how we do that without realizing that it would mean that our parents and grandparents hated their lives until now.
8 July:
I finally feel like I know enough Pulaar to make it worth while to speak it.

More to come.

Wall-e

So, I just watched Wall-e, took a shower, put on SHORTS and a t-shirt. I literally feel like I am in a different world, or at least I did when I was watching the movie.

So here's some updates:
- I am currently at center, I will be here till Tuesday
- Between now and then would be a good time to call
- On Sunday I will learn where my permanent site will be!!!!!
- Tuesday I will go visit for a week!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Then I will be back at center for a couple of days
- Then back to my training site to begin the second half of my training.

I appreciate everyone who has been commenting on the blog. If you read it, it would be cool to log a comment every once in a while or shoot me an email. Communication is largely one way, plus I would be interested to see who is reading. Thanks a bundle.

Also, if you write comments, I'll answer them (eventually):
- No, I have not seen tp since I left the states. Left hand = tp
- The robinet is attached to a pipe from Rosso and the trees we are planting are tap root trees that will be planted on the non-pipe side of the robinet. But thanks for the thought.
- The bottle in the latrine was gretsil, a brackish disinfectant.
- Luxury items: brooms with handles, twist ties, computers, cars, anything you sit on that is not the ground, beds
- Not luxury items: owning 3 different cell phones, nice clothes, rice
- I know there were more questions, but I forgot them and am not going to search for them, sorry. Ask again and I'll answer.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Top 10s

Top 10 things that I appreciate at a new level here:

- bucket showers (I have been trying to decide what time of day is the most enjoyable, and I have come to the conclusion that every single time of day is the most enjoyable)
- meals in which rice or couscous are not the main ingredient (few and far between for lunch and dinner)
- the evening, night, and morning when the temperature is below 100 degrees and very enjoyable
- whenever ANYTHING happens (I actually really enjoy how easily entertained I am)
- feeling like I understand Pulaar
- when it rains (we are in the 3 month long rainy season right now, aka the only time of year it rains at all)
- drinking water
- getting letters from home (mom and maggie I got yours thanks!)
- writing letters (as soon as I find a post office I will be mailing a batch home)
- drinking 9+ cups of tea every day


Top 10 things that I could really do without:

- the middle part of EVERY day when it is over 100 degrees
- realizing that the reason I feel like I understand Pulaar is not because I do but because I have forgotten that I don’t
- not being able to fetch my own water because it’s a “woman’s job” (I sneak some back from the garden in water cans!)
- the lack of chairs
- flys
- the fact that lunch is at 3pm and dinner is at 10:30. 7 hours between meals is just too long
- how dirty everything gets so fast from the sand
- sweating
- the absolute lack of hammocks (has something to do with the lack of trees, but come on!)
- the cruel and unusualness of not being able to wear shorts

Water

Ok, so you have, or will have seen the picture of our one robinet (water tap (even the water is hot when it comes out of the ground!)). That robinet supplies the water to our entire village. Normally there are women constantly sitting by it to fill up jugs (biduns) all day. The one exception is during the hottest part of the day. There is usually are large puddle around the robinet which makes it a travesty that there are any trees planted for share around it. (Something I am going to change before I leave my training site.)

However, right now you have to pay for water by the jug because the bill for May was 100 times the normal amount so they didn’t pay it. As far as I can tell, its going to stay that way for a while.

That’s the scene for the first (and only time) I got sick so far. Since you have to pay by the jug now my family has less water just sitting around and I had let my personal supply get too low. Enter a perfect storm of losing hydration and being unable to replenish it. After a day and a half of recovering from that, let’s just say that I’m not going to let that happen again.

Pictures from my CBT Site!


My room. The black bags are the beginnings of a tree nursery.

My family's cooking hut.
Where some of the family sleeps and where we eat lunch.


The concrete building where my room is, where the chief sleeps (left) and the goat hut in the background.


A typical Mauritanian pose, they like to show how serious they are. "If you are going to take a photo that will last for ever you should not be doing something goofy."

Drinking tea.

Aamadou (my brother (I am named after him, by him)) making tea, a very elaborate process.


The robinet, where the village gets all of its water.


The garden my fellow trainees have started.

Our classroom. From left to right, Michelle, Manna, and Sara Kate.


Our language teacher Ablaye. He is awesome: adviser to the largest political party, director of a school, de facto chief of his village, and our language teacher!


A UN Development Project water tower. Its broken and once I know how to ask why in Pulaar I will.


Aamadou milking (he wanted me to take a picture of this).


The store in our town.

Binta, she is the cutest, most flirtatious little girl I have ever met. She always makes me smile.


Our U.S. tax dollar bought toilet.


Rather, pit latrine.


Main street in my village.


UNHCR refugee tents in my village. (I'm an international institution junkie :)


My Mauritanian "father" Abalaye and my brother Sidi. Sidi is amazing, he is more responsible and works harder than most people I know of any age and he still plays around and has fun. In general, Mauritanian kids are 10 times tougher than American kids and work 100 times more. Frankly, when compared to how well behaved they are, I am embarrassed by how I acted and how most American kids act at comparative ages.


My brothers, left to right, Allsem, Samba, Sidi, Aamadou, Aamadou. Quite a crew huh?

Salad and Chicken

I just had salad and chicken for dinner tonight! That deserves its own blog post.

Communication

I wasn't going to start with this one, but since I checked my email first and when you read my posts this one will actually be last I will. So heres a few notes on communication:

- first thank you for every one who has been emailing me and posting comments on the blog, those are all greatly appreciated.
- related to that, I am sorry that I can't respond to them all, but I have limited access to the internet and therefore don't have time to respond to everyone
- if you feel like I have been ignoring your questions / comments, tell me so and I'll make a point of getting back to you
- I have a cell phone now, I don't want to post the number on my public blog so if you haven't already gotten an email from with with the number in it yet and you want it, email me and I'll reply
- I will not likely be making many calls out as my budget is limited, so again I am sorry but I am going to have to ask you all to be persistent about contacting me, your calls will be answered almost any time of day and GREATLY appreciated.
- Its a weird situation in that most of the time (99% of the time) the main means of communication is through letters. This is odd because every once in a while I will get a call or access to the internet which will reach you all about a month before the letters do. So, expect general updates online and more personal info in letters. Also, there are a lot of people to write so it may take a while, but if you write me I will definitely reply asap.
- NEWS! I miss news from the US. If you come across something worth sharing, like Obama taking a running mate or anything I would care about, please email me. I only get little snippets of news here.

Again, I love hearing from everyone and knowing that people are reading and enjoying the blog, I wish I could share more but I could write for weeks and not be able to share everything that has happened so far.

On a completely different note, I planted my first tree in Mauritania today and will be having a teacher give a lesson I altered tomorrow. Both of those things are needless to say VERY exciting because its the first "work" I have done for my "job" here even though I am still in training.

Friday, July 4, 2008

Happy 4th of July!

Hello world! To celebrate the 4th they brought us all back to the training center, so I have unexpected access to internet. There is so much to say, I don't know where to begin and I also want to socialize a bit with some people other than my 4 site mates so I am not going to write a book. Lets see, the vitals:

My host family is awesome. I am living with the village chief, I live in the concrete house but all the other buildings are made of sticks and grass. (I'll send pictures next time I am back at the center, probably on the 17th) There is a little boy, Alason, who takes care of me; feeds me, carries my stuff, etc. I have 7 hours of language training every day. Its going well but I still can't understand my family.

I saw my first sand storm and understand why they make such a big deal about the rain in Africa.

Mbeyeta mi ko Amadu Sow. (My name is Amadu Sow)

Sorry for such a short post, but this is really exciting to be around every one. Next time I'll bring my journal and share some of my entries.

Happy Independence Day (We are getting cheeseburgers! amazing)